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Ecuadorian Rainforest Chocolate Overwhelms the Competition in
Event at Babson College |
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On
Thursday, November 3, 2006, Babson College hosted a "Rainforest Chocolate
Event" featuring a presentation by Judy Logback, environmental activist and
organizer of the Kallari cooperative. Kallari is a grassroots network of
rainforest communities in Ecuador which, among other things, assists
indigenous growers of cacao beans in producing a truly world-class product.
After welcomes from Babson representatives and introductions from
AllianceExchange, Kallari representative, Edison Aguindo Licuy, a new leader
from the community of Rio Blanco, brought greetings to 80 plus people in
attendance and invited them to visit his community which hosts groups of
travelers visiting the rainforest.
Then
Judy Logback launched into a fascinating discussion of how cacao is grown,
and how -- eventually -- it is made into chocolate. Many of those attending
were no doubt surprised to learn that the cacao bean has to be fermented,
much as a fine wine must be, before being roasted and processed.
Every step in the process is crucial. For example, while in some
areas growers simply scatter their beans on local roads in the blazing sun
to dry them, in the Kallari communities beans are dried in shaded, specially
constructed containers for a controlled length of time, so that ideal
moisture content is achieved. Kallari has implemented controls to ensure
the uniform, optimum handling of the beans at each and every stage.
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This is where it all began
“The
Ecuadorian rainforest is the place from which the cacao bean originated”,
explained Judy Logback. “While cacao beans are now grown in other parts of
the world, most notably equatorial Africa, producers in other areas have
been forced to grow variants of the original Ecuadorian bean. They have
never been able to grow the original variety -- which is generally regarded
to be the best.” |
 Cacao Pods |
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It’s all in the process.
Judy
went on to discuss the processing of cacao beans. During processing the
valuable chocolate "liquor" is released from the solid part of the bean, the
remaining solids being referred to as cocoa. Unless a sufficient amount of
the liquor is added back in later on, the final product will feel "gritty"
rather than smooth in the mouth. However, there is great demand for the
liquor in the production of cosmetics and other products, and frequently the
chocolate consumer is short-changed (though definitely not when it comes to
the chocolate produced by the Kallari communities). It was interesting to
note that the milk in milk chocolate is what is used to replace the more
valuable liquor. |
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Additionally, the combined amount of cocoa and liquor versus the amount of
other ingredients in the final product is a significant issue. The other
"stuff" which goes into chocolate is primarily sugar, although soy lecithin
and some other ingredients may be found. In their production of chocolate,
Kallari produces three varieties of bars: those with 70%, 75% and 85% cacao
content. In the Kallari bars the non-bean portion is 100% organic cane
sugar. |
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Now to the important part
The
culmination of the event was a "chocolate tasting", in which numbered
samples of six different organic and/or free trade, "high end" chocolates
were tasted by all attendees. Judy pointed out that the best way to taste
chocolate is to let it melt on one's tongue, and then raise the tongue to
the palate. The flavor will be released, and can be compared. Also, the
relative smoothness or grittiness of a sample can be assessed.
Of
the six samples, two were judged by the entire group to be by far the best.
These samples were smooth and "creamy" and had what could be described as a
"fruity" or "flowery" flavor. By comparison, the other samples seemed to be
generally "drier" or "grittier" and to have a more bitter taste. It turned
out that the two samples that were the best were the Kallari 70% and 75%
bean bars. Without question, the difference between the Kallari products
and the competition was truly remarkable. |
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A strong and successful partner – making a difference
Appreciation for what the Kallari cooperative has managed to achieve in its
seven years of existence -- at least when it comes to chocolate -- seemed to
be unanimous. This was the first full fledged set of products -- from bean
to bar – grown, harvested, dried, fermented roasted, manufactured and
packaged completely by the rainforest communities of Kallari Association.
See
attached Chocolate Cheat Sheet
prepared by Judy Logback
Look
for our next series of Rainforest Chocolate Programs in April 2007
and A Chocolate Journey to Ecuador – from Bean to Bar – visiting Ecuador’s
cacao producing rainforest communities and chocolate manufacturing in the
mountains in June-July 2007.
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